Watch Parts Watch Repair, Jewelry Parts Jewelry Repair, And Clock Parts Clock Repair



This is a list of watch/ pocket watch parts and pictures of what the actual part/tool is:

Automatic Watch Winder: This pretty much is what it sounds like it takes the tediousness? out of winding a watch, also besides the obvious the watch winder tests and helps calibrate the watches different date and time mechanisms.

bergeon

bergeon

Fusee:This works of a basic principal of torque,by pulling focusing the energy into a small area.As the mainspring winds down it wraps more of the chain from the fusee around it. As a result the torque on the fusee becomes less.

The mainspring is coiled around a stationary axle, inside the barrel. The force of the spring turns the barrel. The barrel turns the fusee by pulling on the chain, and the fusee turns the clock’s gears.When the mainspring is wound up, all the chain is wrapped around the fusee from bottom of the cone  to the  top, and the end going to the barrel comes off the narrow top end of the fusee.

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Mainspring:This is the powerhouse of the mechanical watch, it is  a metal ribbon,when you wind the knob,essentially you are loading the spring and tightening it.

Clock_Mainspring

(note about over winding: is when the watch dies at full wind, it is usually due to dirt and grim build up and has nothing to do with winding the watch to full.) However the mainspring can with time and wear become set/flat to check and see if your mainspring needs to replaced

The British Horological Institute suggests these tests:

  • In a mainspring barrel, when unwound and relaxed, most of a healthy spring’s turns should be pressed flat against the wall of the barrel, with only 1 or 2 turns spiralling across the central space to attach to the arbor. If more than 2 turns are loose in the center, the spring may be ‘tired’; with 4 or 5 turns it definitely is ‘tired’.
  • When removed from the barrel, if the diameter of the relaxed spring lying on a flat surface is less than 2 1/2 times the barrel diameter, it is ‘tired’.

Ratchet Wheel-The ratchet wheel is another integral part of the watches inner workings, its primary job is to help focus the energy of the mainspring,using the teeth on its edge it is engaged by a lever,pawl, or other gear that only allows it to move in one direction.

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HairSpring/BalanceSpring:fine coiled spring that regulates the movement of the balance wheel in a watch or clock.

Hairspring

Center Wheel:

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Tourbillon-counters the effects of gravity by mounting the escapement and balance wheel in a rotating cage, ostensibly in order to negate the effect of gravity when the timepiece (and thus the escapement) is rotated. Originally an attempt to improve accuracy, tourbillons are still included in some expensive modern watches as a novelty and demonstration of watchmaking virtuosity. The mechanism is usually exposed on the watch’s face to show it off. According to wikipedia the Tourbillon works as follows”

Gravity was thought to have a very adverse effect on the accuracy of time pieces at the time of the invention of the tourbillon, particularly because pocket watches were often less accurate than stationary clocks of the same construction. The prevailing theory amongst horologists of the time was that pocket watches suffered from the effects of gravity since they were usually carried in the same pocketed position for most of the day, which was vertical, and then held in a different position while being read. Because the movements of pocket watches and similar pieces were oriented with respect to the cases and the dials, their movements were positioned with the axes of motion perpendicular to their faces. This meant that when the timepiece was placed vertically, the axis of motion of the movements would be parallel to the ground, and thus the force of gravity. In such a position, the force of gravity would affect the motion of parts of the movement differently when the parts were in different positions (i.e., moving with gravity or moving against it), which would cause variations in the rate the movement, which in turn would affect the timepieces’ accuracy. If adjusted for one position, the rate would change when the piece was kept in a different position, such as when being held to be read or when placed on a table at night. In a tourbillon, the entire escapement assembly rotates, including the balance wheel, the escape wheel, the hairspring, and the pallet fork, in order to average out the effect of gravity in the different positions. The rate of rotation varies per design but has generally become standardized at one rotation per minute. Most tourbillons use standard swiss lever escapements, but some have a detent escapement, and others contain novel designs, such as the Audemars Piguet Millenary for example.

The tourbillon is considered to be one of the most challenging of watch mechanisms to make (although technically not a complication itself) and is valued for its engineering and design principles. The first production tourbillon mechanism was produced byBreguet for Napoleon in one of his carriage clocks (travel clocks of the time were of considerable weight, typically weighing almost 200 pounds).”

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Spring Bar Tool:This is a tool that is used to remove spring bars, and spring pins on wrist watches,This is a picture of a Timex Spring Bar Tool.

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Tailoring Tape: Type of tape measure that is used to measure wrist size in determining the correct incriment for a watch band.

P110015_tailor_tape